Belavadi - 5th Jan 2013

BELAVADI

There were many ‘green houses’ along the road to Belavadi. From what I could understand it is some Government initiative to promote Vegetable growing amongst the local farmers. I approached one of the Green houses and luckily found a young person who could speak Hindi. He had worked in Mumbai for a while and had returned home to pursue agriculture. I asked if I could put up my sleeping bag outside the greenhouse. Somewhere in the back of my mind, the picture of a viper I had found on the road earlier that day flashed. He agreed and the usual interrogation started. When he learnt that I was walking to Belavadi, he informed that the dirt road that runs behind his farm would take me directly to Belavadi and the distance is only 5 Kms. I decided to push on.

Pillar Hall -Belavadi

The road was lonely and with almost no traffic. Soon a man in a moped, who looked like a ‘Pujari’, stopped and offered to give me a ride to Belavadi. I politely refused. Soon after he rode away, the road really turned really, really deserted. Not a soul on the road for almost two to three Kilometer. The rustic scenery could be an inspiration to a wannabe Van Gogh with singular bullock cart afar. The road took me around a wooded hill and went down to a village, but still could not find people on the road. I thought I had reached Belavadi. It was after reaching Belavadi that it was much more than 5 Kms that I had walked. But not surprised. In India, the distance is always elastic.

Belavadi is another beautiful Hoysala temple that beckons me for another visit again. Belavadi is under ASI care and hence as well preserved as possible.  The temple is elongated in shape with a Mantap in the entrance followed by a corridor that connects to the Garba Graha.

The pillars in the Mantap are many and incomparably beautiful. There were signs of vandalism and when I spoke to the Pujari, he told it was the locals who had destroyed the sculptures because for years the temple was uncared for. The poojas are carried out but the public patronage is missing, which alone can make the maintenance effective.  The system in the earlier time did ensure such patronage existed by creating an economy around the temple; it is another topic entirely.

Belavadi and Alraguppe are in another class because of the exquisite carvings. In the case of Belavadi, it is also the lathed pillars and the light and shadow effect the polished surface of the pillars play. It creates an illusion of multiple reflecting mirrors, as similar shapes surround us, with their shine. There is a large Mantap as you enter, with deities on either side and then extends through a covered passage with pillars on either side to the main deity. The sculptures on the outside are defaced, as usual. I saw it in all temples. The sharp features of the face had been blunted systematically. I do not know if there was a school for such training.

Night was drawing near and I wanted to find a place to sleep. I walked to the bus stop and there was a small school where many boys were playing Cricket.  Staying there did not appeal with no access to  water, hence took a bus to Javagal, 8 Kms away where I hoped to find a room, my next Hoysala conquest.