Bhoga Nageshwara - Nandi -24th Feb 2013

 Bhoga Nageshwara

24^th Feb 2013

Read about a place called Bhoga Nandeshwara temple near Nandi hills, supposedly a confluence of multiple architectural styles and a temple whose construction is said to have started in 810 AD.

I left Bangalore by 2 PM and took bus to Doddaballapur from where I took an auto so as to reach Bogha Nandeshwara temple by 5 PM. I reached by 5:15.

24^th Feb 2013

Read about a place called Bhoga Nandeshwara temple near Nandi hills, supposedly a confluence of multiple architectural styles and a temple whose construction is said to have started in 810 AD.

I left Bangalore by 2 PM and took bus to Doddaballapur from where I took an auto so as to reach Bogha Nandeshwara temple by 5 PM. I reached by 5:15.

The route to the temple is unremarkable in the sense, one travels through small villages, single roads from which crossing vehicles have to get off to pass each other. The village lies after you drive in between two towering hills on either side. The village itself is very small and does not give a hint that it hides a large and fabulous temple like Bhoga Nadeshwara’s.

As I got off the auto, I was elated by the size of the temple. To reach the temple from the gate, you need to walk about 200 meters. The temple looks to be occupying about 5 to 8 acres. The main gate is at the eastern; there were one each on south and north sides while the temple is at the western end. On all the insides of the southern, northern and eastern walls, there are granite shacks that appear to have been built for soldiers. It could have been a market. It looks similar to the markets lining the road to Vittala temple, Hampi.

There is a square granite pond that gets smaller and deeper down. It is more like a well with granite stone steps. I did not see any water of so. Towards the western end, the temple campus began. Outside the temple, people were busy splitting wooden blocks. Later I learnt the purpose.

The temple has a Hampi/ Chola style Gopura . There are additional deities housed, one right at the read and one at the south-east corner, both of Devis, apart from the two Kutas and a concealed main structure that lies between the Kutas. Both Devis are about 4 feet tall and impeccably decked-up.

The main temple has a multi-pillared hall. I suspect that the pillared hall itself could have been an addition later.

The history of Bhoga temple spreads over 1200 years. The temple was built, renovated and appended by Ganga, Kadamba, Chola, Hoysala and Hampi Kings. The temple was built in 810 AD and has seen many additions and repairs. The two main Kutas house Shivlingas and there is one Nandi in front of each. There is a beautiful umbrella made of stone, standing about 12 feet tall. There are Tamil engravings all over the temple. The main deity, situated in between the two Kutas appears renovated by Hoysala, as there stands a small Mantapa of about 6 feet by 6 feet, made of ‘Black stone’ (like Belur) with exquisite carvings and typical ceilings and eaves with a stone ring at the end to boot, unmistakable calling card  of Hoysala stylist.

There is a temple complex within the main campus but outside the described temple structure, in the south-western corner. The whole complex is locked and looks in bad shape. To the north-eastern corner of the temple, there is another complex which is not open to public. From the ground level, one can see another pond, or a wall with granite steps and a verandah running all around the pond. Behind the verandahs, one can surmise that some other structures lie but I could not get there.

The moon was getting out, it was a day to full moon; the place was turning to magic.

In spite of the touting of good maintenance, there are two things I found disheartening. The first was a toilet complex within the temple complex. I do not understand why it could not have been located outside, about 100 meters away.

The second was what I learnt accidentally. There was an old man showing off his pen drawings of average quality to get money. I paid him ten bucks and waited for him to spill out gems. And spill out did he. He showed two embossed carvings on the granite on the southern gate of the complex and they indicated why the temple is called Bhoga Nageshwara (Bhoga is ‘enjoyment of senses’ which includes sexual enjoyment) and both carvings had a thick coat of white wash.  I do not know how many more are may have been sacrificed in the acquired Victorian sense.

As I was leaving I met the President of the temple who told me that there wold be a ‘Car festival’ the next day. He had spent INR 100,000 in two wooden axles, lying on the ground, for the same. There were about 6 stone wheels of about 4 feet tall, standing on the ground about 20 feet away and he told me that all of them will be used. All this had to be completed in 24 hours.  The Project Manager in me worried.

I asked him if there is any other old temples around and he answered in the negative. He said that the village is only 200 years old. I asked him how come the village is only 200 years old but the temple is 1200 years old. He did not see any incongruence in the fact that there was nothing as old as the temple around it. Symptomatic of our collective lack of awareness of our past. And the consequent lack of pride that otherwise could bind us together.

This is a great temple complex that lives in the shadow of apathetic self-effacing oblivion. A must see.